The area most frequented by foreign climbers is the Nun-Kun Massif in the Great
Himalayan Range. Its easy accessiblity from theKargil-Pudum road and the shortest
possible approach march to the base camps makes this massif the most attractive
climbing destination in the Great Himalaya, necessitating advance booking years
ahead. Among its six known peaks accessible from the Suru Valley, Nun (7,135m)
and Kun (7,077m ) are the highest summits. The area nearest to Leh is Stok-kangri
Massif in the Zanskar mountains, south of Leh.
The base camp for the various peaks of this massif is about two days trek from
the village of Stok. Among its known peaks, Stok-kangri (6,150 m) is the highes
; it offers a spectacular perspective to the central expanse of the Indus valley
which it dominates. Other peaks in the area include Gulap kangri (5,900 m),
Matho West (5,950m) and Kantak (5,275 m). The much higher Konglacha peak (6,700m)
lies south-west of Leh and is reached via Rubak on the first leg of the Markha
Valley trek from Stok. Many un-named peaks in the altitude range of 5,500 metres
and 6,400 metres are also available for climbing in the same region. This entire
area falls well outside the Inner Line, or restricted area. North of Leh, across
the Ladakh Range and the Nubra Valley, lies the Karokoram range. It soars to
a number of known peaks which are, however, within the restricted area and so
not freely accessible to foreign climbers except with special permission from
the Government of India.
The most prominent summits in this range which are accessible from various parts
of the Nubra Vally include, Saser-I (7,415 m), Saser -II (7,513m ) and Saser
III (7,495 m). The climbing season extends from mid - May to mid -October, the
ideal period being from June to September because during this time only Ladakh
remains unaffected by the monsoon which holds sway over most of the Himalaya.
Foreign climbing expeditions are required to obtain permission from the Indian
Mountaineering Foundation for climbing all listed peaks. A booking fee, based
on the height and popularity of the allotted peak, is charged and a Liasion
Officer is assigned to every climbing team. The minimum period required for
processing applications is six months. Every authorized expedition is provided
with adequate rescue coverage in the events of accidents and illness.
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